Khudadad confirmed we were now travelling through a Harakat controlled area so Sayed was on his own turf and became more relaxed and good humoured.
From surly driver he now became a tourist guide, stopping to show me a hot spring. The water, which bubbled from the spring then into a large natural pool, was remarkably warm, making me long to soak in a hot bath. Sayed scooped some water in his hand and put it to his lips, urging me to do likewise. There was a burst of laughter from everyone when I spat out the foul tasting liquid. It may well have been a cure-all for all kinds of health problems, but it would have required a life threatening condition to make me swallow the stuff voluntarily.
At one point we travelled through an area where it looked as though there had been a light snowfall. Sayed waved an arm expansively at the landscape and announced, with great authority, ‘Milk!’ Astonishment silenced me while the boys in the front, for the first time indicating they understood some English, exploded into loud gales of laughter. Sayed bellowed at them and they stifled their mirth, although their shoulders still shook with suppressed laughter. Solemnly, Sayed, turning right round to face me – I so wished he wouldn’t do that – asked, ‘What do I mean?’
‘I think you mean salt.’ I replied, equally solemnly. For a moment there was silence as Sayed assimilated this information. Then he too broke into loud laughter – which set his companions off again. Surprised by his readiness to enjoy a joke against himself, I decided I rather liked him after all.
The landscape became ever more rugged and spectacular. The mountains on our left rose sheer, from the level of the track, which was liberally littered with boulders and rocks that had come crashing down the mountainside. On our right a river fought its way over and around even more gigantic rocks in great swirls and eddies and miniature waterfalls. We climbed yet another steep pass with an awe-inspiring drop of thousands of feet.
I marvelled at the magnificence of the landscape and I also thought about the fact I was here, travelling through central Afghanistan in a truck full of strangers. Not another person in the world knew where I was. It could have been a scary realisation but instead I experienced a bubble of pure giddy happiness. I knew I was safe, protected by these people whose language I barely spoke and felt so privileged to be here. I grinned at Khudadad, who grinned back.
Coming down the pass into the valley the mountains changed from grey rock to red sandstone, honeycombed with caves. Suddenly, before us was the great mountain fortress which once had guarded the entrance to the city of Bamiyan. Shahr-i-Zohuk, glowing a brilliant red in the late afternoon sun, was so reminiscent of pictures in childhood fairy stories – magic castles with crumbling towers and ramparts – that I would not have been surprised to hear it was inhabited by giants.
In 1221 the fortress withstood an attack by Genghis Khan’s army, during which his grandson had been killed. Genghis Khan had taken swift revenge. Not only did he destroy the fortress, but the whole of the Bamiyan valley. Sayed told me that in days gone by many tourists had visited Shahr-i-Zohuk. Now, it was the home of a small political party, Mustazifeen. I had occasionally heard about this group which, although small, was very progressive, its few hundred members reputedly highly educated and supportive of women’s rights. It had established two small field clinics, one in nearby Sheshpul, and the other on the outskirts of Bamiyan.
Soon after passing the fortress Sayed gave the order to halt for the night in a little bazaar, whose only street was already full of parked trucks. Khudadad and I were shown to an enormous room, which could have slept twenty travellers. Here we ate in solitary splendour before Sayed joined us later, for tea.
In his own area and almost at journey’s end he was now relaxed and charming. He’d been a teacher in Kabul, in pre-Soviet days and was actively involved in the village schools in Sheikh Ali. He had been instrumental in ensuring girls also attended school, believing education was a right for everyone. My respect for him grew. He was a man who truly tried to live his life according to the teachings of Islam. He had no time for the illiterate fanatics, whose main aim seemed to be the exclusion of women from all areas of life outside the four walls of their husbands’ homes. He had not wanted to live under communist rule, fearing they would try to eradicate Islam – but nor did he want the end result of the jihad to be a return to the dark ages.
When he rose to leave us, I asked what time we would start in the morning. He looked faintly surprised. ‘Four o’clock.’ He left the “of course” hanging, unspoken, in the air before asking, ‘Is that a problem?’ The eyebrows were beginning to pull together.
‘No, no problem if I can be wakened a few minutes earlier. I have to go outside before we leave. This morning was a bit difficult for me.’
His brow cleared instantly and he grinned, ‘All right, quarter to four.’
At precisely 3.45 am, someone knocked on our door giving Khudadad ample time to roll our sleeping bags and march me across a field, through a wood and over a stream to a spot he deemed suitable.
Shortly after it became light there was loud cheering when the crew spotted a fox amongst the rocks. To see a fox while travelling is supposed to ensure the success of the journey. This fact did not prevent Sayed grabbing a Kalashnikov, leaping from the truck and trying to shoot our good omen. I was glad he missed. Rabbits, apparently, are unlucky omens on a journey.
At the foot of a mountain, Sayed stopped the truck. He waved vaguely at a point about half way up. ‘There is Hassan’s house.’ Despite the training I had been receiving on Khudadad’s route marches I felt that mountaineering was quite a different matter. When the boys carrying my boxes overtook me as I gasped and wheezed upwards, I vowed never to touch another cigarette.
Can you still see that scenery in your mind’s eye Mary?
LikeLiked by 1 person
Yes, I can, Janet and I wish I had taken proper note of the names of the passes. My friend Jawad has commented on Facebook to tell me the roads are in a much better condition. My journey times would be dramatically reduced if I were there now. The spectacular scenery won’t have changed, though. I’ve been feeling really homesick recently as so many Hazara people have been getting in touch and chatting.
LikeLiked by 3 people
Of course, the question remains, “Did you touch another cigarette?” Another fantastic episode, Mary. I have been left wondering where the villagers go to use the bathroom? Does the whole country go to the bush?
LikeLiked by 3 people
Unfortunately, as soon as I got my breath back, I lit up again. Not now, though. I finally managed to give up. In those days, while travelling, there were no facilities at the tea houses and bazaars. People went round the back of the building – people being men as women didn’t travel around the countryside. In the villages, there were sometimes latrines, as we had at the clinics. Otherwise it was a case of finding a large rock or shrub to go behind.
LikeLiked by 2 people
You simply astound me Mary.💜🌈
LikeLiked by 1 person
Aw, thank you, Willow.
LikeLike
No thank you 💜
LikeLiked by 1 person
I can imagine how the magnificent scenery stays in your mind. The only similar place I have ever been to was the time I went on a long trip from Dushanbe to a national park in Tajikistan, when it was part of Soviet Central Asia. We could see across the border to China, and the (very) far distant Tian Shan range of mountains. The area was a lot like your photos, and included a nervous walk over a rope bridge. I have never forgotten that, or how clear the air was.
Best wishes, Pete.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Just fished you out of spam, Pete. I’m glad you alerted me to the possibility your comment was there. Have you blogged about your trip to the national park? I’ve never been to Tajikistan but when coming to Afghanistan by road became too dangerous I flew from Islamabad into Tashkent in Uzbekistan, where Jon met me and we drove to Termez, visiting Samarkand (I have never, ever in my life been so drunk as I was in Samarkand – could feel my brain cells disintegrating the next day like that plastic wrapping stuff which is good to pop) on the way. We then crossed the bridge (fortunately not a rope one) over the Amu Darya Afghanistan.
LikeLiked by 1 person
I wrote this, 4 years ago. No photos though, as my ex-girlfriend had the camera and kept the photos when we split up.
https://beetleypete.com/2016/07/24/holidays-and-travel-soviet-central-asia-1987/
It’s a long post. 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thanks, Pete. Read it and commented there.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Another great episode, Mary. I like the humour. That is something that doesn’t always translate well.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thanks, Darlene, I’m really pleased you feel the humour came across.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Majestic scenery Mary, and also an enlightening conversation with clearly an extraordinary man. How brave he must have been with his convictions about education for women. A fascinating chapter as always thank you. xx
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thank you, Sally. I’m delighted you are still enjoying the journey. My truck driver was indeed a special person.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Pleasure Mary and going out at 6.00 as a reblog..hugsx
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thanks so much for sharing, Sally.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Delighted to Mary.. hugsx
LikeLiked by 1 person
Pingback: MarySmith’sPlace – Afghanistan Adventures#29 Last stretch | Smorgasbord Blog Magazine
Afghanistan landscape is breathtaking. Isn’t it strange how we make assumptions about people only to find they’re completely different from our expectations?
LikeLiked by 1 person
The landscape really is amazing. I’m just sorry I was so crap at taking photos and making a note of exactly where I was. And yes, I guess we really shouldn’t make assumptions before we get to know people 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
I make assumptions about people all the time — and sometimes, I’m wrong.
LikeLiked by 1 person
So have you seen the Bamiyan Buddhas?
xx
LikeLiked by 1 person
I did, Pat. After my stay in Sheikh Ali, my next stop (only one night) was Bamiyan. That was my first sight of the Buddhas and I visited them on other occasions, even climbing part way up the smaller one. And I went back some years later after Taliban had destroyed them.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Gorgeous pics Mary, but still, I salute you for taking that journey. The no bathroom thing would have been the first deal breaker for me, lol 🙂 x
LikeLiked by 2 people
I admit, the no bathroom thing was pretty tough! Fortunately, on the return journey some months later I wasn’t hitching lifts in trucks but was with Jon and so could tell him to stop whenever I needed 🙂 The landscape is truly spectacular and I wish my photos showed that better.
LikeLiked by 3 people
I’d say they’re pretty spectacular photos Mary. 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
Your photographs captured the magnificence of the scenery very well!! They’re so striking.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thanks, Liz. It is such an immense landscape I never felt I could do it justice.
LikeLike
Not a lot of time to be modest. It’s nice to know that a sense of humor crosses cultural barriers.
LikeLiked by 2 people
Thanks, Pete. A sense of humour was vital and when it was shared across language and cultural barriers it felt wonderful.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Oh Mary, this is delightful. I’m so glad Sayed didn’t shoot the poor fox! Your writing captivates me throughout your adventure with its element of danger yet surety of your safety amongst friends. Those boys giggling…wonderful! It’s funny isn’t it, how knowing someone can laugh at themselves makes all the difference about their character? What fascinating history and landscape…love it!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thanks so much, Sherri. Your comments mean a lot. At the beginning of the journey the driver and crew looked liked a bunch of ruffians you wouldn’t trust an inch but they were really great guys and I did feel very safe and protected with them. Central Afghanistan’s landscape is incredibly beautiful and awe-inspiring.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Ha…I can imagine! So glad, Mary…wonderful story, I loved it! Happy Easter and take care 🙂 xxx
LikeLiked by 1 person
I can only write again: What experiences, so different from any European life. Sometimes i think one has to be born for living there, a whole lifetime. Efforts during the whole life, and every decade someone wants to robber the essentials of the county. Thank you for sharing, Mary! Best wishes, stay save and well. Michael
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thank you, Michael. I always appreciate your visits to my blog and your kind comments.
LikeLike
Pingback: Afghanistan Adventures#29 Last stretch ~ Mary Smith | Sue Vincent's Daily Echo
Once again some great articles on Afghanistan. Thanks for sharing.
LikeLike
Thank you – and thanks for reading and taking the time to comment. Appreciated.
LikeLike